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Together they identified farmers, including Chitaya, who were ready to try a different kind of agriculture—one that would free them from dependence on global agrobusiness and its allies.

In Central America and Mexico in particular, although by no means exclusively there, foreign investment transformed national economies, emphasizing export-oriented large-scale agrobusiness and manufacturing.

Bolsonaro has sided with powerful agrobusiness interests, cast aspersions on environmental activists and snarled at European leaders who decried deforestation in the Amazon as destruction of the world’s largest rainforest has surged toward its worst level since 2008.

Oil may be getting cheaper, but agrobusiness is a surging asset class.

It wasn’t just agrobusiness that hurt the taste of the Jersey tomato, Hlubik said.