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Sweet and sour in Italian cooking, or agrodolce, has roots that predate the Romans, but credit Sicily- and the North African influence on their cuisine - with keeping it alive.

Once the squash is nearly cooked, we finish it with the agrodolce mixture so it takes on a glaze-like luster in the oven.

The apricots were missing the tart-sweetness one expects of a proper Italian agrodolce.

The quinoa gets dressed with raisins and vinegar for an agrodolce effect, and the whole thing gets a finishing sprinkle of furikake.

One wintry afternoon, I ruminated over the dry-aged pork chop whose sweetness, I was convinced, couldn’t be attributed wholly to its agrodolce sauce.