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Ugwu went into the living room and his hands worked mechanically, serving kola nuts and alligator pepper, uncorking bottles, shoveling ice, laying out steaming bowls of pepper soup.

In contrast to the slate-shaded lounge, the kitchen is bright and set off with a vivid wall display of more than 200 spices, from West African alligator pepper to Peruvian aji amarillo.

And alligator pepper, the dark, dried seed pods of a West African ginger plant, will be essential for layering heat.