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At its most heartfelt, it’s those childhood tastes that resonate emotionally: a pan of noodle kugel, a chicken foot straight out of my grandmother’s soup pot, a buttered slice of my father’s warm anadama bread.

The irony is that I had to move to the Northwest before making the acquaintance of that quintessential New England loaf that’s perfect for sandwiches and for toasting: anadama bread.