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They'll also add natural coloring agents such as beetroot, annatto, caramel and vegetable juices that make plant-based alternatives look more like the color of traditional meat.

I watch—and try to stay out of the way of hot pots and scalding dishes—as chef Sandra Helena Barbosa quickly pours oil, tomatoes, onion, lemon, salt, garlic, coriander, and a type of orange-red seed paste called annatto into a special clay pot that she leaves to bubble over high heat for about 15 minutes.

He has developed a consommé just for his goat birria, one simmered overnight with water, bones, guajillo peppers, annatto seeds, cinnamon, paprika and more.

Bubbling inside that cauldron is a heady, 17-plus-ingredient stew that includes chiles, ground annatto seeds, cinnamon and banana leaves briefly fried in brisket fat.

Saffron is used now, a welcome change from the annatto that used to dye the rice without adding much flavor.