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Chinese tea, Arabian coffee, chocolate from Spain and so on: They’re all served forth on the stage.

Over Arabian coffee in his office, with the cranes of the World Cup stadium as a backdrop, Mr. Karroum spoke of “Revolution Generations,” one of the four exhibitions.

The shopkeepers plied me with free samples: Iranian dates, pistachios, apricots, Arabian coffee beans, camel-milk chocolates.

These women who looked like black ravens poured me golden Arabian coffee from their thermos and fed me crunchy yellow dates while we waited for Friday Prayer to begin.

Drunk locally, in 1896 it was described by Kew as one of the two species of coffee which could "prove a formidable rival of the Arabian coffee" - the other was Liberica.