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But despite its wilted grandeur, Acapulco has remained the go-to coastal getaway for Mexico City’s landlocked multitudes, just a four-and-a-half-hour drive away along the Autopista del Sol, a toll expressway completed in the early 1990s.

En la autopista 410 al oeste de Naches el servicio satelital es su única opción, y pagan por ese servicio.

La casa es una de las muchas que Caltrans compró hace años en preparación para un plan ahora abortado para extender la Autopista 710.

For many years this slow track was the main road in and out of San Cristóbal, and was still known as the Carretera Internacional, because it leads to Guatemala and beyond; but the new, straighter autopista superseded it in 2006.

The autopista was closed — I was waved back by a policeman — so I took the old winding road on the eastern slopes of the Sierra Madre del Sur, the narrow track that had been cleared by the Dominican friars from Oaxaca in their pursuit of converts, and the conquistadors in search of gold.