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Crossing the Seine I saw a string of barges being towed empty down the current, riding high, the bargemen at the sweeps as they came toward the bridge.

He ran out of the room, rode a horse to the riverside, and ordered his bargemen to take him downriver to the Vulture.

“Not much,” I admitted, thinking back to what the bargeman had said.

Led by parading soldiers, the Queen arrives in a gilded carriage drawn by four Windsor Greys and guarded by coachmen who are still called bargemen because the monarch used to come by river.

The bargeman said he couldn’t go all the way back there, it was every bit of two miles.