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The same braise is used for the semi-firm tofu, but with one important addition: dried shiitake mushrooms, which give the fried bean curds a kind of umami immediacy.

She challenged readers to experiment at home, in a 1981 column, for example, describing a summer dish of iced Japanese bean curd “livened” with astringent ginger and dried seaweed.

The state concluded the license plate “LUVTOFU” could’ve been seen as a reference to sex instead of admiration for bean curd.

Strands of golden, fried bean curd fleck their exterior like a shell, adding crunch.

The recipe I picked from it, tofu tikka, shows how the versatile bean curd, when coated in enough flavor, can provide so much satisfaction.