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At Biga Pizza, we ate a magnificent creation of squash, caramelized onions and two kinds of cheese.

A biga is an Italian-style preferment typically left for around 12 hours to ripen, bringing additional flavor and textural benefits to the final dough.

Commonly, ciabatta is leavened with instant yeast, usually mixed up as a biga.

Ken Forkish’s white bread with 80% biga recipe, from his 2012 book “Flour, Water, Salt, Yeast,” is perfect for these testing times.

The pies — their crusts flavored with a touch of biga, the slightly fermented starter — are worth a visit to Stellina all by themselves.