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If you know when and where to look, you can find sumptuous patches of violet blewits, a foreboding rust-colored tree pathogen called the “orange hobnail canker” and a honey-hued jelly fungi known as “witches’ butter.”

With confidence, I collected, cooked, and ate the safest species, including those blewits.

Formerly it was said to be sold in Covent Garden Market under the name of “blewits,” but we have failed to see or hear of it during many years in London.

Over the next weeks, my finds range from lavender-hued wood blewits to groups of the local variety of fly agaric, whose warty, fairy-tale caps age into yellow stars.