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I pick up a bowler hat, also made from bois de rose.

A woman tries to sell me a lamp, made from bois de rose.

"Everyone is going there because of the bois de rose."

As I reach their workshop, I see it is the blood-red sawdust from the bois de rose.

My search for the famed bois de rose - something I had only ever seen in pictures - begins in a beautiful old cafe in Antananarivo - the capital.