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For many L.A. restaurants, including Botanica in Silver Lake, solvency is more elusive than ever because of the elevated costs of doing business.

For many, including my restaurant, Botanica, solvency is more elusive than ever due to the elevated cost of doing business.

Since opening Botanica nearly seven years ago, our labor costs have risen 40% for hourly workers and 25% for salaried management, the result of minimum-wage increases and market-rate pay increases.

Critic Bill Addison details why Botanica should be on your list for dinner reservations, plus our guides to ice cream in L.A. and ways to support victims of the Maui fires.

Eating at a place like Botanica might feel indulgent.