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With a food culture synonymous with beef bourguignon and steak tartare, the move towards plant-based food is a significant one.

She suggested stocking the fridge with carrots, mushrooms and a few pounds of beef stew meat, so that a big pot of boeuf bourguignon could be produced for a soothing supper in a pinch.

She cooked occasionally from “Mastering” when Julie and her brother were growing up, referring to the book’s recipes for dishes including beef bourguignon, pork chops and Brussels sprouts.

Bill makes a root vegetable orange soup with duck hash, a deconstructed boeuf bourguignon and orange cream puffs with orange chantilly cream.

The only naked meat in "Julia" is the kind that goes in her boeuf bourguignon.