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“Well, aren’t you neat as a box pleat. Got any fabrics in mind today?” she asked.

Women’s silk shirts were long and loose, suits had box pleat or asymmetric skirts - short at the front and long at the back, while blazers were sculpted.

And as this year’s Oscars demonstrated, he’s a designer willing to bend and fold fashion’s gender norms like a box pleat.

The customers were the definition of Milan chic; I was making an attempt in a Cacharel box pleat skirt and linen sweater.

A sleeveless jumpsuit with pockets crafted out of the box pleats at the front and shift dresses with a semi-sheer angular insert at the side or zigzags of buttons pointed the way for the brand.