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For many, another interesting inclusion is brandade, which is a creamy potato-salt cod mixture.

Thinly sliced turnips can also stand in for the cod in the whipped potato dish the French call brandade.

Perkins Cove in Ogunquit, Maine, will make dishes like johnnycake with salt cod brandade, herb-brined turkey with Boston brown bread stuffing and caramel pumpkin pie with mincemeat ice cream.

Fried spheres of cod and potato, intriguingly named Brandade Dauphine, sit atop a piquillo-pepper purée, showered with Parmesan.

At Masseria, the chic of Cam’s French-inspired Le Pavillon is revived in a first course that combines scallop glace and fluke brandade — imagine a warm seafood custard — in the shell of an egg supported in what appears to be a silver nest.