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But it also has sections for lipsticks and skin creams by the Pyongyang Cosmetics Factory, lingerie from the Korea Ponghwa General Group, herbal toothpaste, brassware and Neo-Viagra-Y.R., which is touted as “the best sexual function activator at the moment.”

Artisans still based in the Casbah include those making brassware and jewelry, woodworkers and traditional dressmakers.

When Mrs. Smith gave me an old wood tennis racket one Saturday after I had done what she called “a splendid job” in cleaning her silver and brassware, and shining Mr. Smith’s half a dozen pairs of shoes, I was already beginning to get bored with soccer.

Now, though, it is where locals go to pick up anything that can be remotely called antique: old remodeled furniture, unusual silver and brassware, clocks and lamps, faded statues and paintings.

"Steady!" he mentally encouraged himself, fixing his gaze upon a piece of brassware close by—a lota overlaid with copper and chased with mythological figures.