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There are few fish and Debabrata now makes a living growing tomatoes and brinjal.

I went to market laden with smooth-skinned brinjals and pumpkins, round and fleshed like young women.

In nearby Nyanga street vendors are out in force with displays of carrots and brinjals on blankets and wooden tables; live chickens squawking their objections; and barbecued meats on open grills.

In 2010, the environment ministry put on hold the commercial planting of GM brinjal, an eggplant variety, equipped with a bacterial gene that thwarts insect pests.

India’s government seems to be treading much more cautiously on commercial cultivation of transgenic crops than on field trials — although farmers in neighbouring Bangladesh began cultivating GM brinjal last year.