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The vegan camote burrito on the lunch menu is a flour tortilla fattened with sweet potatoes charred in the embers of a wood-fired grill, giving the tuber a nice bitter edge.

Although we all understood what to expect from “fall-spice brined chicken” and “brown-butter-roasted squash,” we didn’t grasp in advance what camote tetelas were.

She made desserts for everyone in our village—dulce de camote con piña, empanadas de guayaba, palanquetas de cacahuate.

There is the guttural cry of “gaaaaasssss” from the man who sells canisters of fuel, and the deafening scream of steam that announces the arrival of the camote man, who sells hot sweet potatoes sprinkled with cinnamon and drizzled with condensed milk.

Unless you think too hard about what might be in it, the camote is a tasty, reasonable dish.