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Lettuces, shishito peppers and cardoons are a given.

All those rambling sweet peas make me furious; yes, Tristram, it is a handsome cardoon bed, but some of us are struggling to find space for a single extra lettuce.

I forgo the usual post-boil deep-fry but keep their flavors local, marinating the cooked cardoons in a simple Sicilian-inspired vinaigrette of orange juice and olive oil.

A type of king mushroom from Apulia in Southern Italy, called cardoncello because it flourishes near fields of cardoons, is the specialty of this new Italian restaurant.

Dinner takes the traditional bistro menu in some challenging directions, with foie gras toast, pigs’ foot croquettes, watercress soup, Peconic snails with scrambled eggs, sweetbreads, rabbit stew and a gratin of cardoons.