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Caster sugar goes by a variety of names, including castor sugar, baker's sugar, and superfine sugar, the last of which alludes to what exactly it is: a finer granulated sugar.

Gameau does a solid job making the point, often overlooked, that sugar by any other name is still sugar: agave, honey, castor sugar, and even the much reviled high-fructose corn syrup all have similar effects.

Once, after lights out, a brave boy called Wragg tiptoed out of our dormitory and sprinkled castor sugar all over the linoleum floor of the corridor.

I beat up the whites, stiff as silver, added the lemon juice by littles, dusted a bit of castor sugar, and stuck in a sprig of mint from my sunken half-barrel where the cress grows.

Fill paper cases with the mixture, bake, sprinkle castor sugar over the tops and serve at once.