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The leaders of those states’ cattlemen’s associations – which are advocacy groups for ranchers – stood next to both governors as they signed the bans into law.

Instead of opting for a quiet retirement in town, as his family hoped, Mr. Rey would remain a cattleman: He had rented another ranch a four-day journey away.

All possessed wealth due to their headrights—and the Osage Tribal Council suspected that a prominent local white cattleman, William K. Hale, might be to blame.

Working with landowners, agencies and conservation groups, the Olympia-area cattleman deploys his animals with multiple goals in mind.

Many cattlemen and agriculture groups have cried foul over calling the lab-grown variety “meat” and have been lobbying legislators to safeguard the word.