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For example, if we do a dish of ‘Toasted Masa Cavatelli with Chestnut Mushrooms, Roasted Poblano Cream and Cotija Cheese”, that dish presents like a very Italian dish, but is all Mexican flavors.

Many order the meatballs, chicken liver pâté and the fresh cavatelli pasta with hazelnut pesto and pecorino to pair with an Italian wine.

“It’s not an actual business,” Elucid said over plates of branzino and cavatelli in Queens.

Given this prejudice, I will not call this dish of cavatelli, corn, tomatoes and red onions a pasta salad, even though it’s a snap to throw together, highly portable and equally good hot, room temperature or straight from the fridge.

"Try making some hand-formed noodles like cavatelli pressed over these artisanal cavarola boards," Ryan and Thomas say.