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"This pandemic kills twice," says Andrea Cerato, who works in a funeral home in Milan.

A Kia Cerato had “Try but Don’t Cry” on its back window.

Eric Cerato’s meatpacking district restaurant encore, with the French chef Jean Imbert creating the food, was hardly around for one act, much less an encore.

Mr. Cerato has redecorated it as a brasserie-style American restaurant with the seasoned chef Richard Farnabe in the kitchen.

Eric Cerato, a restaurateur who moved to New York from France with ambitious plans, is behind the venture.