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“Mighty blocks of ice, gripped between meeting floes, rose slowly until they jumped like cherrystones squeezed between thumb and finger,” Shackleton wrote.

New Haven custom also demands raw garlic; in Sheepshead Bay the garlic is poached in olive oil until golden, then simmered quickly with chopped fresh cherrystones, white wine and butter.

The fluke and cherrystone clam ceviche on the tasting menu can be yours even if all you want is a single taste from the kitchen.

Littleneck clams are what you want, or slightly larger cherrystones, if you’re on the East Coast.

Not the “stuffies,” baked stuffed littlenecks or cherrystones that could use more clam.