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At Fair Deal Market, Mr. Mock stocked pork ribs, tails and ears, as well as oxtails, chitlins, ham hocks, neck bones and, around Christmas, hog heads.

Large quantities of fat were preserved to make soap and for cooking, and parts like chitlins, lungs and the liver were eaten almost immediately.

On Tara Boulevard, a bustling highway lined with condominium complexes, strip malls, tire shops and auto dealers, Country Charm Buffet was shuttered, no longer serving oxtails, catfish, turkey wings and chitlins.

These intestines were not as elastic as chitlins I’ve had in the South.

They can see how black eyed peas and greens can represent financial fortune and good luck but were perplexed by the chitlins.