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The opposite is true for when you’re working with a softer interior, say pulled lamb or pork — a crunchy exterior works best here — like a toasted baguette or ciabatta.

Classic panzanella features some sort of firm white bread, anything from Italian bread to ciabatta to a Pullman loaf.

That’s how we entered the era of callouts, of cancel culture, of campus rebellions over “cultural appropriation” when dining halls served banh mi made out of ciabatta.

Two pounds of short ribs encased in seemingly a loaf of ciabatta, stabbed in the center with a knife, has that effect on a table.

Restaurants know it helps to have to a gimmick, and this one, from Venezuelan chef Enrique Limardo, features a whopper: two pounds of short ribs packed into what looks like a loaf of house-baked ciabatta.