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She threw big dinners, serving game birds she’d shot herself or mallards she raised, achieving the best flavor, McCutchan writes, “by feeding them skim milk, clabber, grains and greens.”

If you’re lucky, another product you might find at Broham is clabbered milk ice cream, a subversive interpretation of the spoiled leftover milk that black people were limited to during slavery.

The clabbered milk was no thicker than when I started, nothing like the cultured option.

Mrs. Tiflin was in the kitchen spooning clabbered milk into a cotton bag.

The child’s scalp smelled like bread dough and clabbering milk.