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Collagen from the fish's connective tissues, when combined with an iron-rich salt, works as a coagulant: the mix destabilizes tiny bits of waste compounds so they amass into bigger globs that can be strained out.

The pot already contained a coagulant — probably gypsum — and after a few minutes under cover, the lid was lifted, and I spooned into the most ethereal tofu I had ever eaten.

“They recruit more and more platelets, and when they are activated, they explode and produce coagulant material. HIT is like a forest fire; it just self-perpetuates.”

For all of its dizzying spontaneity and dazzling breadth, his best music remains meticulous and coagulant, holding its own form.

A popular theory says that Liu An, a Chinese nobleman during the Han dynasty, accidentally invented it when soy milk somehow mixed with a natural coagulant.