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One particularly popular snack they point to is hazelnuts and cobnuts, which were in plentiful supply in the autumn.

Prince also uses cobnuts, which is an excellent idea while they’re in season, as they are at the moment, and Berry uses the pleasantly bitter walnut.

Or would it throw us some surprises too: a taste for cobnuts in Tyne and Wear, say, or a liking for nori in Mid Glamorgan?

“A wiser person might have said no,” she says with a laugh over a lunch of heritage beets with goat’s curd and roasted cobnuts at Hix, a restaurant in London’s Soho area.

First Mr. Irving gave a talk, then there was food: sweet shrimp garnished with wild celery and dittander, mushrooms and bone marrow with cobnuts, elderberries and chickweed.