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To match the collection’s aggressive, almost militaristic severity — a multipocket combat jacket, graffitied hoodies, a dress made entirely from the brand’s repurposed leather City bags — the Spanish artist Santiago Sierra hauled over 9,700 cubic feet of dank earth into the venue to create troughs through which models plodded, their clothes gathering sludge with each step.

Cusó, who hunched in his chair, wearing a combat jacket, told me that he was a lifelong resident of Barcelona.

“We were — our whole campaign was a little bit the island of misfit toys. So he looks around and I’m wearing my combat jacket, I haven’t shaved, I got, you know, my hair’s down to here, and he says he’s thinking. ‘

After two multi-platinum albums, the band imploded in 2001 over the disputed ownership of a combat jacket.

The chest plate was inspired by beautiful asymmetrical breast plates worn in Japanese kyudo archery, and the combat jacket underneath it has nylon webbing detailing that crisscrosses at the small point of the waist to really cinch it and create this amazing silhouette.