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Working the gas grill, which faces the sidewalk, Rivera continually lifted cooked slices of meat and placed them into warm tortillas, made on site from corn flour.

California, tired of waiting for the federal government to do the right thing, is considering Assembly Bill 1830, requiring that each pound of masa corn flour be fortified with 0.7 mg of folic acid.

While cereal grains are now fortified, masa, the corn flour used in tortillas, tamales and tostadas, is not.

Moving from a diet of meadow bugs and worms to a mash of corn flour and milk in its final sedentary weeks, this revered Gallic bird acquires a unique muscular succulence.

It should be made with a medium to coarse grind cornmeal, not corn flour.