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But legal species are fished with gill nets, too, including shrimp, corvina and mackerel.

The Cucapá still push wooden boats into the estuary to fish for corvina.

A mixed seafood ceviche combines raw tuna, corvina, shrimp and more with spicy, citrusy “tiger’s milk” that lightly cures the fish and electrifies the salad.

Fishermen flocked to its barnacle-covered shores to catch corvina, croaker and sargo.

The chef’s preferred ceviche is mine as well, the “mixto” bringing together raw corvina, tuna, shrimp, fried calamari and leche de tigre, the spicy, citrusy “tiger’s milk” that lightly cures the seafood and electrifies the salad.