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It can be overwhelming for first-timers, but the counterperson stands by absolutely cheerfully with a basket for your choices: maybe curry croquette, caprese or teriyaki chicken?

“I’ve worked here for a long time,” the counterperson says cheerfully.

Someone will eventually notice your helplessness and assemble your lunch, acting more as a personal shopper than a traditional counterperson.

The patient, efficient counterperson promised, with surprising specificity, that the wings would be up in eight minutes.

What happens in practice is that someone behind the counter will eventually notice your helplessness and help you assemble lunch, acting more as a personal shopper than as a traditional counterperson.