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They look like a cross between an otter and a gopher but they taste something like a rabbit or dark meat from turkey.

If dark meat is your preference, turkey thighs and drumsticks are an option.

About 40 minutes later, the dark meat is reliably juicy, the vegetables golden and bathed in rendered chicken fat, and both take about the same amount of time.

Order breast meat, and find it uniformly, almost uncannily tender; the dark meat is a study in succulence, with richness provided by more variation in texture.

Longtime judge Tom Colicchio asked his group to roast a whole chicken and compose a dish with both white and dark meat.