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The neighbouring building has been transformed into a museum and education centre, where some of the original fittings will be displayed, including the stained-glass doors of the salon de luxe.

But Ms. McDonald is a one-woman time machine de luxe, who translates the precise stylistic quirks of a bygone era into a melting immediacy.

The pricier chicken is called the poule de luxe, French slang for a woman with high upkeep costs.

Consumption of vinyl records in the UK doubled in the past year, while de luxe formats such as box sets have bolstered the traditional market.

Their books are filling the shelves of book shops, and their stores are multiplying - five new "patisseries de luxe" opened in the month of September, in Paris alone.