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Even the food is good: lamb dhansak and chickpeas, jerk chicken with rice and peas, fish and chips with mushy peas.

She once had a glamorous older boyfriend who took her out for dinner to the local curry house, but when she ordered the prawn dhansak, he said, “Could you order something cheaper?”

My chicken dhansak, served in a beautifully spiced lentil curry with naan and rice, was just $11.95.

Mushroom replaces lamb in my samosas, and a sweet potato rösti rolling around in a hot dhansak sauce is a beautiful thing.

Tracking down the origins of popular Indian dishes like the biryani, korma, vindaloo, and dhansak, she makes the surprising discovery that most of Indian cuisine is, in fact, a mongrel creation.