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Prepare the Salad: In a large bowl, combine the shredded rotisserie chicken, chopped green onion, and dill pickle.

For good measure, there’s a little chopped pimento, chopped pepperoncini, and chopped hot dill pickles stirred in, because balance isn’t just about onions.

My sister, whose taste I trust more than my own for most things, prefers the dill pickle route for this recipe.

From this perspective, sauerkraut is a particular ecosystem shaped by German food traditions, kosher dill pickles by Ashkenazi Jewish traditions, and pao cai by southwestern Chinese traditions.

“You have to be a pickle lover,” she says about Johnny Rebs’ frickles, thinly sliced dill pickles dusted in cornmeal then deep fried.