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The Helmand, in Baltimore, is an elder in the group: Baltimoreans have been eating platters of dopiaza and lamb chops on its white tablecloths since 1989.

There are many people eager to learn how to prepare dopiaza, an Afghan dish made with onions, curry, garlic paste and chicken, or mantu, large medallions filled with veal and accompanied by a sauce made with vegetables and red squash.