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The outdoor area is essentially another series of rooms, with a lounge area with a fire pit; a covered patio with a ceiling fan for hot Los Angeles summers; and a slightly raised boardwalk inspired by the Japanese engawa, a type of veranda that serves as a passageway.

The house was square, with a narrow, covered engawa wrapped around it.

Engawa is a fluke’s dense and chewy outer perimeter, the muscular edge that sends the rest of the fish fluttering along the ocean floor.

Also available that day was engawa, a cut of summer flounder taken from the fringes of the fillet, and presented in Osakana’s display case in clean, tight coils. Engawa, too, is a delicacy in Japan, sometimes more esteemed than bluefin toro.

The green paste went onto a black plate with strands of cucumber and myoga ginger bulbs and softly folded lengths of sashimi: geoduck, amazingly sweet and nearly orange; a slab of tuna belly run through with fatty streaks that melted moments after touching the tongue; a glittering bit of sardine; and chewy squares of engawa, the powerful muscle that sends a fluke undulating along the ocean floor.