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They tucked into crab dumplings, sturgeon and ��Գٰ���ô�ٱ�.

And “we have to change our mentality so that eating a barbecued ��Գٰ���ô�ٱ� is no longer a symbol of virility,” a line that underscored her view that meat consumption must be reduced to help fight climate change, and that men eat more meat than women.

Last month, a French politician from the Green Party declared, “We have to change our mentality so that eating a barbecued ��Գٰ���ô�ٱ� is no longer a symbol of virility.”

Barbecue has become the word on every front page, the subject of heated TV debates and the source of a crisis in national identity ever since Sandrine Rousseau, a member of Parliament from the Green Party, declared on Aug. 27 that “we have to change our mentality so that eating a barbecued ��Գٰ���ô�ٱ� is no longer a symbol of virility.”

How could a veal blanquette or an ��Գٰ���ô�ٱ� with morels and cream hold a candle to white bean foam with sea urchins or spherical melon caviar?