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I ate a superb mussels escabeche, in which the shellfish had been slightly pickled to complement its briny essence, washed down with a bone-dry riesling.

Seabird serves her mussels in a stout beer broth or as a cold escabeche with leeks, fennel and chiles.

At his more casual restaurant, Bar Amazonia, Delgado serves causa not Limeña style in layers, but open-faced and topped with shrimp escabeche, a preparation more common in northern Peru.

There’s an echo in the dish’s name of escabeche, a technique introduced by the Spanish colonists who started settling Jamaica in the late-15th century that uses vinegar to both ‘‘cook’’ the fish and preserve it, a particular urgency in a warm climate.

Perhaps Tellez's favorite use for nopales — and the way he converts the cactus-averse — is through his grand-aunt's nopales en escabeche, a sharp, salty quick pickle that's seasoned with Mexican oregano, garlic and black peppercorns.