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Sils Maria is our favourite Engadin destination, a cute and ancient village backed by the romantic Val Fex, where there are plenty of winter hiking trails and a couple of lovely places to stop for hot chocolate or a meal.

I thought of this as I found myself perched on a granite escarpment at 8,000 feet, overlooking the Val Fex on the border between Switzerland and Italy.

When I was 19, on my first trip to the Val Fex, I tried to walk from Splügen to St. Moritz, over the Piz Platta at 13,000 feet, in running shoes not unlike these.

After two hours, we refueled with rösti and local bratwurst served outside Hotel Fex on a red-and-white-checkered tablecloth.

Our two-hour walk in the Fex Valley was a nice introduction.