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Once, when he had come on Alan unawares, he heard him playing the flageolet.

It was in September, so all the ingredients were in season: courgettes, tomatoes, green beans, peas, basil, flageolets – and loads of garlic.

In France, dried flageolet beans, small and pale green, are a common accompaniment, or fat dried white coco beans.

After playing the mouth harp, Borodovsky says he thinks it sounds like a flageolet, a Renaissance-era instrument similar to a flute.

Having spun on a rotisserie under a coat of herbs, it is carved off in long strips, like shawarma, and draped over very soft flageolets.