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This is the kind of fresh glou glou natural wine fans pine for — grapey and with an energy that tickles the palate.

A Chilean sauvignon blanc adds a richer, bigger flavor when combined with grapey pisco, while switching to riesling makes for a drier cocktail.

He also sells a decently made all-purpose balsamic vinegar, a grapey saba sauce and an unusual ruby-colored Lambrusco vinegar to balance a salad with a whisper of sweetness.

“Both are made primarily from a red grape called Piedirosso,” he says, “and there's nothing like it: fresh, sparkling, light in alcohol, grapey, and with chewy red fruit.”

This one is not like the grapey Beaujolais nouveau that arrives every November with the sunny, fruity taste of the recent harvest.