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It’s dark as polished ebony and it crunches like grissini.

The bread basket could pass for a bakery, filled as it is with twig-like grissini, tender focaccia, an Italian roll that tastes like a flaky croissant flavored with Parmesan and sometimes even slices of pizza.

Brimming with skinny grissini, tender focaccia, a roll called pane sfogliato whose flaky layers are flattered with Parmesan, and sometimes even pizza slices, the bounty makes a stellar opening act even as it threatens to ruin you for the rest of the show.

The bread basket could pass for a bakery, filled as it is with twiglike grissini, tender focaccia, an Italian roll that tastes like a flaky croissant flavored with Parmesan and sometimes even slices of pizza.

Sure, but you won't want to ever again after making Maurizio's sourdough grissini.