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Vanillin typically comes from vanilla beans or is synthesized from the petrochemical precursor guaiacol.

Smoke-tainted wines contain unusually high levels of odiferous, smoky-smelling products of burning wood called volatile phenols, including the molecules guaiacol, 4-methyl guaiacol and syringol.

This means that a smoke-exposed wine grape might have very few smoky-smelling volatile phenols like guaiacol or 4-methyl guaiacol inside it in smellable form, but have a lot of their glycosides as “helpfully” synthesized by the glycosyltransferases.

At first, scientists had identified only one compound that contributed to smoke taint: guaiacol, which affects taste and color.

In their initial experiments, he and his team created a standardised manure-like stench from a mixture of dimethyl disulphide, dimethyl trisulphide, diethyl disulphide, butyric acid, para-cresol and guaiacol.