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His skill was perhaps most evident in his mastery of magical moles and his more inventive creations, like fried cochinita pibil head cheese with habanero ash emulsion, avocado mousse, and kumquat sauce.

Our order was missing its habanero duck sauce, and service here is not without foibles, such as the plural misdelivered dishes at another dinner.

But everyone knows what it is made of: the small but mighty habanero chili, roasted and mashed with just enough sour orange juice and a pinch of salt to make it salsa-ble.

If you’d like to temper the heat in this dish, use less of the Scotch bonnet or habanero pepper.

A habanero, the record-holder about 25 years ago, typically tops 100,000.