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A local customer gifted the chef 12 or so pounds of hen of the woods mushrooms ahead of the night I tucked into tagliatelle featuring the largesse and snowy filings of aged Parmigiano-Reggiano.

Summer brings a bevy of berries — Juneberries, raspberries, blackberries — along with chanterelle and hen of the woods mushrooms.

For a more sophisticated depth of flavor, use a mix of mushrooms: cremini, shitake, button, hen of the woods, oyster, and chanterelle will all do nicely here.

His minimalist, pristine toppings might include hen of the woods mushrooms, whatever alliums are popping that day, just-clipped herbs, cheese made from the output of Orcas’ happy cows and goats.

I had never heard of a hen of the woods mushroom.