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In those days, there never was much to eat on that strip aside from kebabs at Khyber Pass and the hijiki tofu burgers at Dojo.

For most of July, Sushi Kappo Tamura didn’t serve seaweed salad because Kitamura says he couldn’t find hijiki, the seaweed he makes it with, anywhere.

Hijiki salad is a nest of jet-black sea grass, a superfood of the sea.

After the hike, we settled back at the kitchen table for lunch: a generous bowl of quinoa, sprouts, hijiki seaweed and avocado.

There may be tiny firefly squid with miso and batons of celtuce, a Taiwanese lettuce grown mostly for its juicy roots; or a chunk of fried tofu in broth; or sweet hijiki seaweed served in a wee, checkered container that looks like a cross between classic Japanese ceramics and something that the fries might be served in at Pop's Chock'lit Shoppe.